Dolomites
Backpacking with a 2 year old
Mountains were always calling, but it not easy to backpack in the wilderness with a baby. All that gear, diapers, baby food, and a baby on our backs…
When we heard about hiking up the mountains, sleeping in refugios that serve wine and food, our eyes widened. Before we knew it, we were on a flight to SF to get our schengen visa. We did all sorts of steep hikes in the pacific northwest. We were ready!!
September was perfect hiking weather, not too hot or cold. You are not allowed to camp, so book your refugios in advance. We used an agency Dolomite Mountains for the convinience. But you can book each of the refugios individually (and save money!).
Day 1 - Lago Di Braies to Rifugio Fodara Vedla (7 miles. 1261 m Ascent/643 m Descent)
If you can stay at Lago Di Braies, you should. The beautiful alpine lake admist the soaring Dolomite peaks was so magical. I could have spent hours skipping stones into the lake.
The dolomites is a rocky mountain. I cannot insist enough on sturdy boots and hiking poles. It is steep, rocky and lots of scrambles. We did the Alta Via 1 which does not have any ferrata (rock climbing), but even so it was very very steep.
At start of the hike is a rocky path which feels like a 90 degree incline, a few switchbacks later there is a roped scramble. This was probably the hardest scramble on the whole route. A few minutes after the scramble is nestled a tiny shop that servers beer, and food.
After lunch, we still had a long ways to go. Albeit, much more gradual and forgiving than the initial scrambles.
What to pack
- Hiking boots for a very rocky trail. I took my mountain boots because I had one.
- Hiking poles
- Snacks!! Snacks are a life saver when travelling with a toddler.
- Sleeping sheets, for the night or two that you stay at a dormitory
- A light Microfiber towel
- Layers - a fleece, puffy, and a light rain jacket. This will allow you to layer up or down depending on the weather
- Electrolytes. Get some toddler electrolytes as well for the hot days, dehydration causes most travel related sickness in lo Pedialyte
- Flip flops or comfortable sandals for post hike.
- A few sweat wicking t-shirts
Day 2 - Altopiano di Fanes (6 miles, 730 m Ascent/815m Descent)
Tall dolomiti rocks all around. It was splendid to walk in the vallyes of dolimiti. .
After a steady climb, we walked along the water’s edge of Ru d’Al Plan. The rest of the gang joined us today! Refugio Fannes, had a sand pit and some amazing house wine. Nirvana, for the young and old alike!
Closer to Fannes, there are beautiful hikes you can explore. You could spend an entire day exploring the area, lazing near the river…
Day 3 - Rifugio Lagazuoi (6 miles, 730 m Ascent/815m Descent)
Ouch! Needless to say the views were spectacular. But you really had to earn them today.
After some dramatic climbs, and a steep descent we breaked for some packed lunch. At mid-point you can take a small detour and hike to a beautiful green lake - Lago di Limo.
A few ups and downs later, we reached a long steady climb to Lagazuoi. As we climed up, we came across World War 1 bunkers used by the Austrian’s.
At about 1.5 miles to the Refugio it started hailing on us, and we took refuge at a World war 1 bunker. It was the real deal with a stone bed,and an old table inside.
Day 4 - Passo Giau (10.9 miles, 1103m Ascent/1541m Descent)
Sunrise at Lagazuoi was phenomenal. We took the cable car down to skip the steep upclimb we did the previous day.
The rest of the day had its own share of meadows,and a lot of up and down.
Nestled in between mountains, the Passo Giau has amazing views. The place is accessible by a road. So even if you are driving through the dolomites, this is a must visit. The hostess was very friendly, the rooms very well maintained, and the food was amazing!!
Day 5 - Passo Staulanza (9.3 miles, 530m ascent/1000m descent)
After some croissants and cakes for breakfast. We trodged om, the hike to staulanza was beautiful and gentle. Lush meadows, and inspiring mountain views lead into a light wooded trail.
Day 6 - Tissi (6.7 miles 1130m ascent/644m descent)
More cakes for breakfast, we were running late today and it was a hard hike, so we took milk to go! We hiked by several farms around tall organ shaped mountains. Towards mid-day we reached the green waters of lago coldai.
The last stretch to Tissi was brutal, it was all uphill with no respite. But when we did make it and the it was phenomenal to be at the top of the dolimiti!
Tissi only has dorms. However, since they were packing up for the season, and had an extra room to spare.
The views from Tissi was from another world. You could walk up to edge of the mountains, and see the dolomites in all its splendour
Day 7 Capanna Trieste (6 miles, )
Our gang split up and a few of us took the faster way down. It was a steady way down, with a considerable section of the hike on forest roads.
We felt so accomplished to have done with a 2 year old et all! We popped some expensive champagne once the taxi drove us back to Cortina (but only after a long nap!)